Wednesday, November 28, 2012

On the trail of tigers!

We were up early this morning before breakfast to go on our first safari to the Ranthambhore National Park which is famed as a tiger reserve but also houses jackal, hyenas, panthers, sloth bears, antelopes, deers and crocodiles in it's 106 miles as well as numerous species of birds.

Most people visit here in the hope to sight a tiger although we are warned how rare a sighting is likely to be. Having said that, the scenery is stunning with the boulders upon which the fort sites right at the top, tree filled jungle areas and wide open spaces. There are also a number of beautiful lakes.

This morning we viewed crocodiles and deers as well as a number of birds. No Tiger though. Ah well we will try again later in the day!












Between safaris we went for a walk local shops. Unfortunately thy were geared towards tourists and although they have beautiful handicrafts, they are priced so differently between shops and you need to barter. As you walk up the dusty road you share your pathway with cows, goats and pigs. We have never walked a street with pigs, so bizarre but perfectly normal here!


We returned later in the afternoon for another safari. Seeing the park at a different time of day is wonderful as the scenery is so different. The park was full with deer and birds. We also spotted more crocodiles and monkeys. However despite our search, we did not find a tiger. Nonetheless, it is beautiful park although the roads are very bumpy and it is very hard to stay seated!












We ended the day with a local massage and dinner. Another early rise tomorrow as we head to Jaipur.


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On route to Ranthambore

Today we left Agra and started our journey to Ranthambore. On the way we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned city, built in 1571 as emperor Akbars Imperial capital and abandoned shortly after construction. It is full of palaces and fortifications and is a blend of Hindu and Islamic architect. As you walk around you appreciate how well preserved the complex is and with a little imagination you can picture how it was used in it's day.












We stopped for Lunch in Bharatpur before heading to the train station to catch the Shatabdi express train to Ranthambore National Park. The train was the longest I have ever seen with different classes of coaches. We were in a standard air conditioned carriage but in other coaches, people held onto the doors as the train moved! We were also surprised by the locals crossing the tracks to reach the other platforms rather than use the purpose built bridges. It was quite an experience to see Indian trains in action. You also had to be quick getting on and off as the trains wait for no one. The upright steps caused a few of us some problems!













We arrived in the evening with an early start planned for tomorrow for safari.


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Agra and the Taj Mahal and beyond

Early rise today to go to the Taj Mahal, one of the highlights of the tour. As you enter the gates to the Taj Mahal, you are not disappointed. The view is breathtaking. The Taj Mahal appears in the background as an amazing white castle nestlings behind great gardens.







The Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died in 1631at the age of 38 giving birth to their 14th child. On her death bed she asked Shah to built a great monument to show the world the love they had for one another. He built the Taj Mahal. You can also enter the Taj Mahal to view the Mausoleum of Mumtaz Mahal and the emperor.

The White marble of the structure remains mainly intact and is well preserved with the original calligraphic panels still in place. It is a beautiful building and something everyone should see if given the opportunity. It is difficult to described the wow factor you experience when you first see the Taj Mahal. It is truly beautiful and definitely one to see.










later in the day we visited Agra Fort. Unfortunately parts have been badly desecrated with people writing on the wall but a lot of work is being done to restore the complex to it's original glory. Agra Fort was built by emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1573 out of red sandstone. It was originally surrounded by a moat and comprises of several buildings and courtyards. It also has dungeons underneath but these were not accessible to the public. The Walls of the buildings would have been elaborately decorated in their time and there is still evidence of some of the painted ceilings and Walls. An impressive and very large complex and worth a visit to appreciate the architecture and scale.














In the afternoon we had free time from the tour group and visited the Mother Teresa missionary in Agra. Here the sisters care for the mentally challenged adults, both male and female as well as disabled children and children abandoned and looking for adoption. The centre also houses children where a parent has died Nd e surviving parent needs time to find work and get settled before being able to bring the child home. The centre is funded via charitable contributions. It receives no other financial support. There are 21 paid workers as well as the sisters. The centre sits in the back streets of Agra beside St Marys church and behind iron gates.

On our arrival, the sisters were very welcoming and were happy to show us around the centre to show us the work that the do. The first house we visited was that if the women. As we arrived a fight was breaking out between two of the women and we watched as the other women work together to separate them and assist the sisters. The women all welcomed us and we watched some of them sewing or knitting. When we visited most women were sat outside on a veranda whereas others were contained inside. Some seemed so ill that I am not sure they really knew where they were and it was sad to see. They were however well cared for and in a safe environment. The sisters explained how the doctor visited daily and they tried to help the women overcome their illness to return to their families. Sometimes they never got better and would stay at the centre for the rest of their lives but at least the sisters tried to reunite families.

The mens section seemed much sadder as many men were laid in bed unable to comprehend where they were. They seemed in need of more care in general than the women patients. The sisters look after 80 women at the centre and even more men. The mens section was made up of a series of rooms which had beds at one end and a selected ares with tables and chairs. They were all friendly and welcoming and like the women keen to shake our hands.

The children's section has an outdoor play area and inside has a room with lots of cots where the babies sleep and two other dormitories, one for disabled children and one for the able children. the able children attended school on site each day whilst the disabled went daily to a special school. The able children were very active and surrounded us wanted to touch us and shake our hands and play. The babies enjoyed the attention of smiling faces and being held and even the disabled children were happy to see us and shake hands. Some were worse than others though which was sad to see but the sisters do such a good job at caring for them the children are as happy as can be.



It is a distressing place to go, no one likes to see abandoned children or sick people but the work being done here is amazing and if in Agra, you should definitely visit and take a donation to support the sisters in their hard work. You will love the children and the attention they give you and they joy they get from seeing visitors makes it worthwhile. We took some craft supplies for the school but blankets, clothing and even things like latex clothes are welcomed. India is full of stark contasts and the are many people forgotten who need help. India is not just about the Taj Mahal? The Mother Teresa mission do what they can for some of these unfortunate people. Go and see the mission if at Agra and see something different that will make you think before going back to the plush clean hotels.

We also went into Agra town in a local tuc tuc, which is the best way to travel about, and had a meal from a local stall of a mixture of fried vegetarian snacks. For 25p each we had a bowl of delicious local food which was cooked fresh in front of us and tasted better than any hotel meal we had eaten to date. Agra town is not itself a tourist spots so it was fascinating to walk up and down the street and look at the shops and stalls used by the locals. We also avoided the hawkers and people generally ignored us.there was the occasional hello (Indians love westerners) and one boy cried with fright. His mother explained he was scared as he had never seen White people before!












To get around Agra we hired a tuc tuc for the duration. The driver stayed with us and took us from place to place. This is the best and easiest way to get about and is very cheap. A great day, busy but mixed with the wow of the Taj Mahal and the sadness of the mission. A real contast today representing the differences within the country.


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Tuesday, November 27, 2012

New Delhi

Today we rose early for our organised tour of New Delhi. As I touched on yesterday, whilst driving around New Delhi the main streets are lined with embassies and military buildings which are all very well maintained. In addition all the roundabouts of New Delhi have gardens which are beautifully maintained and you can see a keeper on each one ensuring they are continually looked after.



New Delhi is kept very clean and all the roads are swept free of rubbish. The roads are busy though with many cars, buses, tuc tucs, taxis and motorbikes hustling to get past one another. It is a very beautiful city to drive around.

However, if you can catch a glimpse of the side roads that hide behind the beautiful buildings and the nice shop fronts, them the picture is not so rosy and many poor looking areas can be seen where families are obviously living in much poor conditions than the main road would like to to see as a tourist and shows it is maybe not so different for Old Delhi after all, just has a more cosmetic appeal on the face of it. In some areas though you can also see poverty on the street.


We visited the presidential palaces. We were not allowed inside but were able to walk around the grounds which were beautifully manicured.


















Our tour continued to India Gate where there was a ceremony going on with bands and prayer.







We visited the Qutb complex which hosts the tallest minaret built in India. The complex was built in 1193 by Qutbuddin Aibak to announce the advent of the Muslim sultans. The Muslims used the bricks from the destroyed Hindu temples to build the complex including a mosque and the old intricate art of the Hindu can be seen clearly in the remaining Walls. Minarets were built high to let god know where the Muslims had settled.











This afternoon we took the four hour road trip to Agra, but we will return to Delhi next week where we will use the time to try and see more of the real Delhi outside of the organised tour.

During the drive we were able to see the country side and small villages. Very different to city life with many fields and workers using old tractors or even hand plough.

Tomorrow is an early start for the Taj Mahal, very exciting.


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Location:Fatehabad Rd,Shamsabad,India

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Arrival in Delhi

We arrived in Delhi midday Friday and after checking into our hotel headed out to look at Old Delhi. As we are based in New Delhi we were driving here first and on the main streets there are many embassies and military bases that look very grand. If you can catch a glimpse down some of the side roads though they do not always look so affluent! Anyhow, more on New Delhi later as today is more about Old Delhi.

So the first thing that strikes you as you get to Old Delhi from New Delhi is the lack of wealth and you walk into the India you always imagine. Small shops clambering together, lots of people, market stalls and properties in need of some serious repair!















However what also strikes you is how welcoming it is with everyone waving at you with big smiles. Our mouths were watering as we drove passed the Market stalls cooking up meals of chicken (and in some cases you could chose yours live!). It is a hive of activity and noise but absolutely amazing to see.



We viewed and toured around Jami Masjid, Indias largest mosque with soaring minarets and vast marble domes. It was built in 1656 by the Empreror Shah Jahan on a natural mound taking six years to complete. The huge courtyard can accommodate 20,000 prayers (ladies are to pray from the outer areas). a great piece of architect. Ladies, be warned, you have to wear specific gowns when entering!






















We then visited Raj Ghat the site of Gandhi's cremation. Many people come here to pay their respects to the memorial and it is a very grand and peaceful place. what is also lovely here is to see all the families out in the grounds playing on the grass and just enjoying the wide open spaces.



Weather wise, it is not very hot here at this time of year. Around 18 to 20 degrees. not quite what we expected and glad we brought a cardi with us as well!

This evening we ate in the hotel, and the meal was very nice but looking forward to staying at hotels nearer to town. The hotel we are at now is the Taj Hotel which is stunning but it is quite away out of town and away from any local restaurants which is disappointing. This evening a Wedding was being held at the hotel which included a street possession with fireworks, dancing and bands. Everyone was dressed in big colourful clothes and the atmosphere was amazing.

Early to bed as jet lagged and early start tomorrow for tour of New Delhi and drive to Agra.


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Location:Fatehabad Rd,Shamsabad,India